Comments, Page 45

In terms of sharpness, Yashica T*s are very close to the other cameras you’ve mentioned. Big minis tend to under-expose slightly and add some vignetting in certain situations, which you may or may not like (Yashica T4/T5 does not do that). Mjus are more prone to autofocus issues.

So if the lens was the only factor I cared about, I’d choose Yashica T*. But it’s not a hands-down all-hail type of a difference.

The best lens on a point-and-shoot for me is on Minolta TC-1; it is hands-down, all-hail type of a glass…

Here’s a short video that shows the process of retrieving the film leader. It’s not superbly methodical; essentially you need to twist the spool whenever the retriever tool feels too tight when you try to push the next plastic tongue in. Other than that, with some practice, it gets easier: youtube.com/shorts/3ADmdia…

Plus, it’s faster to load film into a Patterson spool and you get to keep a canister that you can use for bulk loading later. Or, once you accumulate a bunch of used canisters you can…

An update to my insane light leak fixing story. I’ve tested the camera in full sun and none of the frames had any issues!

I’ve also lubricated film transport and shutter winder gear, cleaned up the focusing screen, and dusted the whole thing on the inside. My sixty-year-old film camera feels like new!

(This is the camera: analog.cafe/r/my-olympus-p…).

My favourite photo from the roll after fixing the camera is this portrait from the Pride parade in New Westminster (BC, Canada) on August…

Hi Hubregt,

It’s been a while since I worked on my Vitessa, but it seems from your photo that the cam should rest on the silver arm right below it that you see in the image. So the solution would be to move that silver piece that you can see through the hole up and then move the cam towards you (as seen in the photo) so that it rests over it.

I can’t guarantee that this is correct, but a way to check would be to move the lens back and forth a little bit (as you would when adjusting the focus; you can do this by…

I finally fixed a mysterious light leak on my Olympus PEN FV film camera.

It’s been bugging me for months. Changing the light seals did not help. In fact, I’ve done it twice, even followed the instructions by the website that pre-cuts them (aki-asahi.com/store/html/p…). Unfortunately, the leaks persisted.

So I tried something new. I loaded a donor (still good) roll of film and advanced it to frame 8. I then left my PEN in the bright sun for a day. Finally, I removed the strip of film…

This is my first time cross-processing slide film at home. This roll of Ektachrome 200, expired many years ago so I am not yet sure whether the chunky grain is the result of using an alternative chemical process (C-41 instead of E-6), the age, or an older technology. Nevertheless, I’m rather happy with the results. The colours look accurate with a good amount of saturation and plenty of fidelity — which is more than I expected.

I have one more roll of the same emulsion which I hope to shoot in the coming months…

Thanks! I haven’t had any data transfer issues since (I’m still using the same scanner!) but I have a strange issue that causes my XAs to reverse scanning order every other strip I insert. It’s very odd but the image quality is the same and I’m determined to use it until it gives up.

I’ve been inverting all my negatives using this method (I’ve developed an automated tool that does most of the work for me): analog.cafe/r/how-to-scan-…. This is mostly so that…