Those on here mentioned the edge aberrations, might be interested in knowing that if this camera uses the same programming as the Stylus, then they should know the Stylists programming was always kind of weird, I.e. it basically keeps the lens wide open until the shutter speed tops out, then it starts shutting down. I consider this to be a real flaw, it would have been better to shut down to 5.6 after the shutter hit 1/30th, and then continue. I loved the Stylus and owned three, but this and the gearing failing were the two big flaws!
Nice review of the LT-1 though. I’ve been wanting one for quite some time. The mju i is probably my all around favorite compact despite it‘s flaws, and the LT-1 just looks so good!
Yes, you might be right. The softness might be due to the subjects. I do a lot of environmental portraits at relatively close ranges and here the corners are less noticeable anyway. My impression is that the lens really shines at these ranges. I have some very sharp portraits in the 1m-0.35m range. Renders beautifully too. At low apertures I’ve noticed some corner softness, but not enough to bother me. Stopped down the lens seems sharp corner to corner. I scan with a Pakon that is not that affected by film curling so that might be another factor..
Another thing that seems to go wonky on these cameras is the auto focus. I have one copy that seems to want to focus on infinity about 80% of the time, and it seems others have similar problems..
Mats: I’ve seen about the same amount of softness in the corners of my Mju I scans. Perhaps this could do something with the film curling, subjects, and the apertures our cameras chose?
I think you’re right about the parallax error, I’ve been using the estimates I assume on my rangefinders, but I’ll edit that part as the lens and the finder window are indeed very close.
On the parallax correction marks. This is one of the things I really like about the Mju i and ii: There is very little parallax error due to the close proximity of the lens and the viewfinder window. If you read the manual, the marks in the viewfinder shows the parallax corrected frame at 0.35m. So you can assume that at 2m and probably 1m there is practically no parallax error to speak of. Most other compacts have far more parallax error.
Good point, Khurt. There are certainly some drawbacks to cost-savings. And thank you: your comment reminded me of half-frame cameras, using which is another iteration on shooting (literally) less.
Using a manual camera to reduce the average rate you go through rolls seems to be a variation of shooting less film. Instead of exposing, for example, one frame a day, you expose one frame every two days thereby using less film.
There’s an initial cost (you’ll need chemicals, a film tank, and a few more tools) and ongoing expenses (you’ll need chemicals). Plus, the cost of storing the additional equipment and disposing of those chemicals.
I scan my negatives at home but I admit a quality scanner is expensive and scanning takes a lot of time.
Thank you, Brian! There are light seal kits sold online which are essentially foam stickers that you can cut into thin strips to replace the old ones. But they may not keep the water away like the originals, unfortunately.
Forgot to mention I have a fairly unobtrusive light leak at one edge on prints from the Oly Mju ii. Any advice? Are their fix-it kits that address this problem?
Dmitri, I thank you for this review of Oly’s Mju ii. I’ve owned a very nice black specimen since well back in the day and am only now getting back into using it again. I look forward to great results. Your review reminded me of all the reasons this camera has always been a ‘keeper’ for me. Great to see those enormous scans you included. They confirm your remarks, both pro and co
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