A great write-up Dmitri. Interesting to hear of your recent data transfer issues — My RPS 10M (Same scanner?) has started encountering similar issues.
Was the inverted version you’ve posted created using your preferred tool? Silverfast HDR 8 can do a decent job (See attached) but I have to agree with you on the UI.
Here’s a short vlog of the Lomochrome Color’92 sample roll going through re-spooling, home development, and some of the results that I got with it: youtube.com/shorts/1vlwzcd….
As you can see from the video, Color’92 negatives are pretty dark compared to other C-41 films (Portra 800 in this case), but that shouldn’t cause any issues with scanning. I haven’t tried printing it in a darkroom though.
My negatives turned out looking very purple. Here’s what one of the frames in this article looks like on film. I had no issues with it after scanning. Hope this helps!
Edit: I replied earlier but it didn’t show up on the article because of a bug. I fixed it, so, hopefully, no more lost replies. 😅
I really enjoy the tendency of these cameras to shoot at wider apertures. Most point-and-shoots tend to avoid narrow depths of field, which makes Mju I/LT-1 somewhat special. Aside from minimizing motion blur, their lenses render bokeh beautifully to my eye.
It seems to like to shoot wide open as well, though maybe not too the extreme the mju ii does. You can actually find the exposure chart of mju II online and it starts to stop down after 1/125th (it goes to down to 1/1000 @ f11 in bright light so no f16 or smaller!). It’s a great camera but I also have a lot of slightly out of focus shots because of this.
Yeah, that‘s possible. On my mju I, and especially the mju II the lens seems to be almost better at close range though. I have some extremely crisp portraits with the mju ii where you can see every detail in the hair, fabrics, skin etc.
The AF-600 is actually quite well known for the lens and it’s size, and still not too expensive for some reason. The Fuji DL-500 is more overlooked but actually the more enjoyable camera in real use imo. It goes by like 10 different names (no kidding…
Shame about the softening of the lens at close focus. I have a Nikon AF600, it’s almost as small as both the TC-1 and the Tiara, 28mm and the lens is just incredibly sharp at around infinity. But at closer range it’s a lot softer for some reason. So soft I was wondering if there was some sort of focus calibration error. But no, after checking it’s just a lot softer at those ranges unfortunately. At 5m-infinity it’s probably one of the sharpest point and shoots. The Tiaras older brother the Fuji DL-500 is another…
hello, was happy to buy it with the flash and the manual at $5 this weekend. I’m glad i have the manual since it explains that to dial the film ASA setting you must put the focus at infinite, that helps quite a lot! :)
1. Go outside in full sun. Point your camera at something brightly lit, and press the shutter button while listening and observing your camera’s lens. The shutter should be very fast and the aperture must look tiny. If your camera defaults to ISO 100 film, it should fire at about 1/125s with an f/16 aperture. It’s often the smallest…
If you haven’t yet seen Dustin’s Kodak factory tour, you should. It’s a three-part documentary that’s enchantingly informative and awe-inspiring.
When I saw this video, my appreciation for colour film production increased tenfold. I also found the series therapeutic — it helped me realize that film photography is greater than me, greater than Analog.Cafe, and it is still likely to last beyond my time.
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