Comments, Page 61

A ton of content emerged about Polaroid I-2 this week.

Lucky YouTubers, social media personalities, reporters, and bloggers put out reviews and opinions about the camera and the company. And even those who didn’t get to play with an advance copy still posted their thoughts about it (like me, right now).

I want to highlight two of the best pieces of content about the camera from the people who actually used it:

youtube.com/watch?v=3sooI3… (The Verge). Of all the videos I’ve seen, this is the only…

Today, I unboxed the new RETO Project, the KODAK EKTAR H35N half-frame film camera.

I got my review copy very quickly. Naturally, I’m very excited to test it out. As mentioned above, it has glass and aspherical lens elements, which I don’t think any plastic toy/reusable camera design has.

If you like this kind of thing, the unboxing video is here: youtube.com/shorts/bJi2KRa….

The review is coming soon. I’ve decided to load CineStill 50D (even though I had Ektar and was very tempted to use it)…

There are many rare and extinct films out there, but none are as expensive as Kodak Aerochrome.

A single can of 24 exposures in 35mm costs over $250 now, and the price has never stopped going up since its discontinuation in 2009.

I wrote a review and a shooting guide for this film earlier this year (analog.cafe/r/kodak-aeroch…) and compared it to a cheaper film alternative from Lomography…

Here’s a sample frame from the press kit. It looks pretty sharp (to be fair, the sharpest out of the bunch). I’m certainly curious about the potential of this camera as it seems to fit the current environment of increasing film prices (analog.cafe/r/film-prices-…).

Seasoned film photographers may be able to find used film cameras with better build quality, lens, and shutter specs at a comparable price on eBay (i.e., Canon Demi…

A new half-frame 35mm film camera by RETO Project, KODAK EKTAR H35N, is now available for pre-order at retopro.co/

This new “reusable” film camera can make 72+ exposures on a single standard roll of 36exp. 35mm film. It comes with a flash, a built-in optional Star Filter lens, and a coated glass lens with an aspherical acrylic lens design that “helps to improve the sharpness of the images” according to the press release.

A “reusable” a.k.a. “toy” camera is a simple plastic body design typically with a…

In terms of sharpness, Yashica T*s are very close to the other cameras you’ve mentioned. Big minis tend to under-expose slightly and add some vignetting in certain situations, which you may or may not like (Yashica T4/T5 does not do that). Mjus are more prone to autofocus issues.

So if the lens was the only factor I cared about, I’d choose Yashica T*. But it’s not a hands-down all-hail type of a difference.

The best lens on a point-and-shoot for me is on Minolta TC-1; it is hands-down, all-hail type of a glass…

Here’s a short video that shows the process of retrieving the film leader. It’s not superbly methodical; essentially you need to twist the spool whenever the retriever tool feels too tight when you try to push the next plastic tongue in. Other than that, with some practice, it gets easier: youtube.com/shorts/3ADmdia…

Plus, it’s faster to load film into a Patterson spool and you get to keep a canister that you can use for bulk loading later. Or, once you accumulate a bunch of used canisters you can…

An update to my insane light leak fixing story. I’ve tested the camera in full sun and none of the frames had any issues!

I’ve also lubricated film transport and shutter winder gear, cleaned up the focusing screen, and dusted the whole thing on the inside. My sixty-year-old film camera feels like new!

(This is the camera: analog.cafe/r/my-olympus-p…).

My favourite photo from the roll after fixing the camera is this portrait from the Pride parade in New Westminster (BC, Canada) on August…

Hi Hubregt,

It’s been a while since I worked on my Vitessa, but it seems from your photo that the cam should rest on the silver arm right below it that you see in the image. So the solution would be to move that silver piece that you can see through the hole up and then move the cam towards you (as seen in the photo) so that it rests over it.

I can’t guarantee that this is correct, but a way to check would be to move the lens back and forth a little bit (as you would when adjusting the focus; you can do this by…