Same here! Tri-X for me is the easiest to get a “ready” image from whereas HP5 has many possibilities for pushing, pulling, and unusual development methods 👍
It’s added to my recent thoughts of art vs design and makes sense that those qualities would reach audiences more effectively are what designers and marketers strive for.
Interesting. I often go back and forth between HP5 and Tri-X based on whichever is cheaper at the moment. I shoot more 400 ISO black and white than anything else. Sometimes I tell myself I like Tri-X better because of the higher contrast, but with HP5 I can always increase the final contrast anyway so it’s not even as good of a reason as it sounds!
Ektar is not an inferior film as Portra, but another professional film. It has smaller grain and a saturated color usually more suited for landscape and general photography, other than portrait and fashion, that is what the palette of Portra was created for.
So said, I expected different pictures of such combination of film and lens. Ektar gives saturated, vibrant colors and a huge exposure latitude and the Minitar lens is famous for its contrast (well, and for the vignetting, of course). Maybe you pushed it?
I love this and feel quite inspired to experiment with push/pull processing.
To me these images look fantastic! I’m not one for trying to nail the perfect focus or getting the exposure bang on, I prefer to be surprised by the resulting photographs as soon as I have developed and scanned. This is purely my own preference of course, but it’s why my R6 MK2 is mostly used for scanning while 90% of my photos are captured on film.
I will definitely be experimenting with the few rolls of HP5 I have with some spare…
Blue tack is great for keeping tiny parts like screws, gears and springs in one place. Separate blobs for keeping together parts from different assemblies. Just remember to make sure none adheres to the items as you take them up for reassembly.
Analog.Cafe’s Etsy shop, FilmBase, is on vacation until Jan 2, 2026!
The listings are down, and I won’t be dispatching any new orders. If you have questions, feel free to message anytime. Analog.Cafe website will continue to be fully operational, and there will be new posts coming out as scheduled.
I have plans to list items you may like next year, so make sure to follow the shop! New film, new cameras, the works.
Yet to try this developer! I moved from Rodinal to Ornano Gradual ST-20 and I can really recommend that film! It works fabulously with Fomapan stocks in my opinion.
I have yet to try using powdered developers but I very much prefer one-shot developers because I can’t be asked to think if the solution is still strong enough or not lol
Daren describes his first impressions with the Kodak Snapic A1 film camera camera in-hand. I’ve spliced in a short video and samples shot on FP4+ on Snapic: youtube.com/shorts/6LC9_D6…
This is one of the photos from the roll I accidentally exposed during the podcast (I forgot I had a roll of Tri-X in my RETO Pano when I opened its film door to show Daren the camera’s construction on the inside… I snapped it shut super quick).
Most of the frames on the roll held up well, and only ~5 shots were affected at all. Lucky!
Kodak Snapic A1 actually has a window on the film door that shows which film is inside, which would’ve been helpful then.
This is Tri-X EI 200 (pulled -1 stop). You may also…
Analog.Cafe Podcast s1/e5 “Kodak Snapic A1: Best In Class!”
In this episode, you’ll hear me accidentally open my loaded film camera and ruin a few frames (gasp!). But more importantly, Daren and I shoot, develop, scan, and share our first impressions with the new RETO/Kodak film camera. We are impressed.
Dmitri
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Kym M
Kym M
Kaiser
Andrés PB
Dmitri
Wurzel
Dmitri
Jon Archibald
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Dmitri
Krystian
Dmitri
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Zachary Dripps
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Dmitri Edited