Kamerastore/Camera Rescue is handing off StantaColor 100 (Kodak Aerocolor IV) spooling production to Optik Oldschool.
If you’ve read the review or already have heard of the film, SantaColor is a respooled colour-negative film for aerial surveillance photography still manufactured fresh by Kodak. The Finnish Camera Rescue team was the first to discover and distribute this film for 35mm cameras, but, according to their announcement today, the operation will be handed off to the German maker Optik…
Unfortunately, Lomography discontinued the Soviet-designed LOMO LC-A cameras.
According to Kosmo Foto, the historic design will no longer be produced, with the last of the stock being it for the camera. The LC-A platform is now being replaced by Lomography’s new point-and-shoot camera, the LOMO MC-A (analog.cafe/comments/4qqw), while the LC-Wide and the LC-A 120 will continue production.
I realized the other day that my fixer solution is over a year old. This may be acceptable, but my Tri-X negatives, which are normally transparent, have already begun to look purple (a sign of expiration). It would be nice to have an advanced warning for something like that! (TL;DR — get advanced warning for expired/exhausted chemicals with Chem Log — analog.cafe/app/chem-log).
Today’s update, Analog.Cafe v3.32.46, adds the long-overdue 2-level warning system to…
Analog.Cafe v3.32.43 adds various improvements to the Comments app. I worked on the Reply and Thread buttons, the avatar and date-posted fields, and the image, video, and article preview layouts in the list feed. I hope these changes make it easier for you to add and find comments!
Thank you for breaking this down. I think if I had to choose between Color Plus and Kodacolor, I would pick the one that was less expensive. I have always been able to tell that Kodak Gold was different though. I like using it in the late afternoon (on sunny days of course). It really does pick up the golden tones of the “golden hour” better than any other inexpensive film I have tried.
There are much more accessories for the MX available:
- 250 shot bulk film magazine
- dial date back
- data back with a little window to scribe short text by hand (roll numbers for instance) — this is a unique product
- Motor Drive (5 fps) with NiCad pack or hand grip for AA batteries
- external control pack for timed serial images
And of course all the photographic accessories for macro, micro photography and for adapting the camera to telescopes (Pentax built first rate astronomical telescopes, some of…
Analog.Cafe v3.32.28 adds a “Delete” option to all comments you may’ve authored. Please check this page to learn how this feature works: analog.cafe/r/introducing-…
I’ve also fixed a bug that prevented the comment message from being updated after it was edited or deleted.
Hi, Dmitri. I’m enough of a Polaroid fanboi to respond to this. I’ve shot a fair amount of the OneInstant film and have several cameras that can make use of this.
¹ — Please watch this Analog Resurgence video to understand what you’d be getting yourself into first: youtube.com/watch?v=QrZaQV…
I’m giving away this pack of very expensive film because it looks like a 1) pain to assemble, 2) pain to operate, and 3) I have no compatible camera or even experience shooting pack film.
But I know that there is someone out there who knows how to shoot this film, has the right tools, and the desire to deal with the challenges of…
Great essay. Takes guts to write your story. I have a hard time even thinking about those “last trips”. It’s the price of having pets for anyone with a heart. I weep as I write this, so strong the memory is of my hand on that little chest and feeling the last heartbeat of our little morkie Monkey, who exited this world 17 months ago. She was 14.
How to get a “pushed film” look without actually push-processing it.
Push-processing means adding development time or temperature to your film so it acts as a more sensitive film than it’s marked on the box. For example, you can push an ISO 100 film to EI 200 by simply metering it as if it were an ISO 200 film (giving it one stop of light less) and then either asking your lab or, by yourself, keep it in chemicals for a set time longer so that the shadows and highlights develop more.
That’s a good point. A better comparison should probably examine that baseline directly (the differences in batches of the same film).
So far, I’d say the evidence I have points to the differences between ProImage and Kodacolor 100 being greater than batch variation, but it’s not 100% conclusive. I’m referring to my earlier test: Kodak ColorPlus vs. Kodacolor 200 vs. Kodak Gold (analog.cafe/r/kodak-colorp…). I’m assuming that since ColorPlus and Kodacolor…
Subtle differences might be caused by different production batches. Back in the day, photographers used to use the same batch stock for any given work. While the same stock from different batches will behave in the same way, mixing it would lead to small (but potentially perceptible) differences in tone and contrast.
Anyways, Kodak has dozens of film patents, many of them versions of the same film. So it’s not crazy to think that they used different versions for their own brand, very close to Proimage and…
I thought that it would be cool to see some photos of negatives pushed/pulled to extreme ISO. I’m very curious how negatives turn out, what’s their density etc.
In general it may be a good idea to include pictures or maybe even scan samples of negatives in your future reviews. It could help to better understand how emulsion behaves.
Dmitri
Dmitri
Dmitri
Dmitri
hnswick21
Dmitri
hnswick21
Dmitri
Herbert Useall
Dmitri
norayr
Dmitri
thereisnocat
Dmitri
Jon Archibald
Dmitri
Dmitri
Andrés PB
Dmitri
Robert Pustułka