That seems handy. Though the sheets of this size don’t seem to fit in a folder. I also saw six-by-six PrintFile sheets which would work if you get exactly 36 frames (but I usually get 39 🤑 and sometimes 27 or less for hand rolls).
I had been using at least two sheets per roll (depending on how the lab or myself cut the negatives) and had a lot of wasted space. Your method makes a lot of sense and I will have to give it a try!
I am obsessed with holding Mju II in my palm. It’s a special kind of camera. But I must agree — I’ve seen a lot of these with faults and issues. Sellers also often neglect to report them because they may seem insignificant unless you put film through the camera. 😔
And thank you for the tip about the ISO speeds! That’s wild. I’ll have to update the article.
It is such a beautiful camera, as well as the article! I had 4 mju ii before and the previous 3 were just either broken or have some annoying issues. For instance, one of the copy has focus drifting problem which would drift the actual focus distance by a certain degree every shot I take… That basically made every close-up shots unwatchable :( However, apart from that issue I encountered, It’s a pleasing experience using this camera! It feels so nice to have a compact, large aperature camera that can easily fit…
This is such a well-written article! I can feel every aspects that you feel when you’re using the camera, not just by listing specs but by truly exploring it. I enjoy the reading a lot, thanks very much! I can feel the passion of analogue soul from this article.
Oh yes! I’m hand-metering for my Rolleicord IV; new to me from a big eBay seller in Prague. Currently using Foma 100 (Rodinal; soon D96). Also, I’m planning to do quite a bit of work with Double-X (to be tested in D96; Df96 wasn’t my cuppa tea) and Potsdam 100 — working well in D96. C ya. Good luck. I’m in Victoria, BC.
Thanks. That was easy to follow and I found it useful. Currently, I’m using a Sekonic L398 (self powered; possibly with a silicon cell instead of selenium), and occasionally a Weston Master III (the same as the one shown in your third-from-topmost photo). I prefer to use the Weston with a grey card, therefore it’s not as convenient as the Sekonic in ambient-reading mode. Good luck eh! A friend recommended your “Moscow Dayze” — I bought it and really found it fascinating. Your photos there are an unexpected…
Those on here mentioned the edge aberrations, might be interested in knowing that if this camera uses the same programming as the Stylus, then they should know the Stylists programming was always kind of weird, I.e. it basically keeps the lens wide open until the shutter speed tops out, then it starts shutting down. I consider this to be a real flaw, it would have been better to shut down to 5.6 after the shutter hit 1/30th, and then continue. I loved the Stylus and owned three, but this and the gearing failing…
Nice review of the LT-1 though. I’ve been wanting one for quite some time. The mju i is probably my all around favorite compact despite it‘s flaws, and the LT-1 just looks so good!
Yes, you might be right. The softness might be due to the subjects. I do a lot of environmental portraits at relatively close ranges and here the corners are less noticeable anyway. My impression is that the lens really shines at these ranges. I have some very sharp portraits in the 1m-0.35m range. Renders beautifully too. At low apertures I’ve noticed some corner softness, but not enough to bother me. Stopped down the lens seems sharp corner to corner. I scan with a Pakon that is not that affected by film…
Mats: I’ve seen about the same amount of softness in the corners of my Mju I scans. Perhaps this could do something with the film curling, subjects, and the apertures our cameras chose?
I think you’re right about the parallax error, I’ve been using the estimates I assume on my rangefinders, but I’ll edit that part as the lens and the finder window are indeed very close.
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