I really enjoy the tendency of these cameras to shoot at wider apertures. Most point-and-shoots tend to avoid narrow depths of field, which makes Mju I/LT-1 somewhat special. Aside from minimizing motion blur, their lenses render bokeh beautifully to my eye.
It seems to like to shoot wide open as well, though maybe not too the extreme the mju ii does. You can actually find the exposure chart of mju II online and it starts to stop down after 1/125th (it goes to down to 1/1000 @ f11 in bright light so no f16 or smaller!). It’s a great camera but I also have a lot of slightly out of focus shots because of this.
Yeah, that‘s possible. On my mju I, and especially the mju II the lens seems to be almost better at close range though. I have some extremely crisp portraits with the mju ii where you can see every detail in the hair, fabrics, skin etc.
The AF-600 is actually quite well known for the lens and it’s size, and still not too expensive for some reason. The Fuji DL-500 is more overlooked but actually the more enjoyable camera in real use imo. It goes by like 10 different names (no kidding…
Shame about the softening of the lens at close focus. I have a Nikon AF600, it’s almost as small as both the TC-1 and the Tiara, 28mm and the lens is just incredibly sharp at around infinity. But at closer range it’s a lot softer for some reason. So soft I was wondering if there was some sort of focus calibration error. But no, after checking it’s just a lot softer at those ranges unfortunately. At 5m-infinity it’s probably one of the sharpest point and shoots. The Tiaras older brother the Fuji DL-500 is another…
hello, was happy to buy it with the flash and the manual at $5 this weekend. I’m glad i have the manual since it explains that to dial the film ASA setting you must put the focus at infinite, that helps quite a lot! :)
1. Go outside in full sun. Point your camera at something brightly lit, and press the shutter button while listening and observing your camera’s lens. The shutter should be very fast and the aperture must look tiny. If your camera defaults to ISO 100 film, it should fire at about 1/125s with an f/16 aperture. It’s often the smallest…
If you haven’t yet seen Dustin’s Kodak factory tour, you should. It’s a three-part documentary that’s enchantingly informative and awe-inspiring.
When I saw this video, my appreciation for colour film production increased tenfold. I also found the series therapeutic — it helped me realize that film photography is greater than me, greater than Analog.Cafe, and it is still likely to last beyond my time.
There’s a lot you can do to clean up even the worst examples of scratches on film.
I’ve recently fixed an image that came out appallingly bad. I needed it for my review article (analog.cafe/r/peak-design-…) and couldn’t re-shoot it in time.
Cleaning this frame up was a gruelling process, but I wanted to document it on video to give some context for what the process may be like for whoever is about to attempt something similar.
There’s a ton of choice out there. Mju II is a versatile camera that can shoot anything with a DX code.
If you prefer to use the built-in flash as little as possible and have the least motion and lens blur in your photos, an ISO 800 film will work well. I really enjoyed Portra 800 (analog.cafe/r/kodak-portra…) although it is on a pricey side.
This was a perfect and uncanny timing because I just purchased this camera for myself for a trip to San Diego. I have not received it yet but I can’t wait to start to use it.
Do you have any recommendations for 35mm film I could use out in California or for daylight and night?
Hi Dmitiri, many thanks for your review. Your comments on the dynamic range are very interesting because I think I found the exactly the same while doing film testing with a densitometer.
I wanted to find the base ISO (Zone I) and development time for a Zone VIII exposure of Delta 400 in Adox XT3 (similar to Kodak XTOL). I used replenished stock (i.e. not 1:1 / one-shot).
Using my setup and development practices, and contrary to ‘popular belief’, I found a base ISO of 320. So, at least in my case, XT3 is not…
Yeah I feel that way sometimes about Lomo films too, particularly the effect ones, like Purple. I’m usually happier when I approach the shoot as an experiment with an eye for the palette I know the film can give, kind of like shooting black and white.
They’ve actually just released a new colour film. Do you think you’ll try it?
Dmitri: I don’t know if you already talked about this, but here is my comment. Every time I’m shooting a lomography film the results are far from what I expected. I don’t know if it is because I’m not doing it right or if there is something wrong with this brand.
Dmitri
Mats Fagerberg
Mats Fagerberg
Dmitri Edited
Mats Fagerberg
Constantin Prijilev… Edited
Dmitri
laurent.soubielle
Dmitri Edited
Dmitri Edited
Dmitri Edited
Dmitri Edited
Dmitri
Dmitri
Dmitri
stujunior
stujunior
Rogier van Oostrom
Dmitri
Natali Herrera-Pach…