Here’s a step-by-step of how I got to the image that I felt was good enough to headline the review:
1) First photo, where the lens is in focus (you can see the serial number clearly), but the body is out of focus due to the narrow depth of field.
2) Second photo I took of this camera with the body in focus (notice the light meter bubbly texture above the lens — it’s in focus, whereas the lens is out of focus/writing is blurry).
This photo of the Kowa E camera I reviewed recently is my first attempt at focus stacking with Photoshop.
The process is very simple if you have the app. There are just two steps:
1) Edit > Auto-Align Layers
2) Edit > Auto-Blend Layers
Focus stacking is a technique of combining multiple images of the same thing taken at various focus settings. This is useful for photos of objects taken up close with large apertures as those factors combined create a very narrow depth of field (more about it here…
Both are tiny full-frame zone-focus foldable point-and-shoots that cost less than they are worth. I’ve had them for many years, and the articles had to have a bit of a refresh in terms of sample photos and some spelling issues (Balda is hard to spell).
I don’t, but I’m certainly planning to in the near future. I’m hoping it’ll help me refine what I wrote here and maybe come up with a more systematic colour correction step.
Here’s another YouTube video. This time, it’s a promo for ONDU Ekian large format camera: youtube.com/watch?v=Y3xKfd…
I’ve seen a lot of Kickstarter videos for many photography-related products. Naturally, larger businesses can afford better footage, but the producers and Elvis Halilović, the founder, seem to have outdone most — if not all. He literally takes a flight at the end of the video.
All to promote a (beautiful) camera. Kinda badass.
I had this camera in the 70’s and early 80’s. Wonderful. I just bought another one recently, and this article was very useful in reminding me of it’s ins and outs. Telling me which batteries to get was essential.
Great article! I think the the ISO dial is placed on top for easy exposure compensation. Most advanced photogs would have no problem calculating one or two stops over or under exposure using that adjustment. I think it was more of a practical than esthetic positioning. Thanks, @Br1anw1x.
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