Congratulations on a very nice portrait series! I also really enjoyed reading the text. It is true that photography in the rain can be thoroughly enjoyable and often provides for great shots. I try to go out in the so-called “bad weather” as often as I can, provided I can protect my old gear from being damaged.
SX-70 is so good I’d still use it for the 600-series Polaroids (with a flash or using the backlit exposure method). But for the I-Type film, this is the way :)
Thank you so much for this review! I love instant photography and own an original SX-70, but I can’t just buy film for it at the store like I can the 600 and I-Type films. I’ve been thinking about buying a Now and now I think I will.
Do you have a favorite guide for servicing these? I’ve got a pre-war(!) copy with a stiff aperture that I’d like to re-lubricate but I hesitate to take it apart without some sort of service manual…
From my experience I can confirm what you say about Kodak Gold. I worked professionally as a photographer and lab tech during the 80s when Gold came out. We shot all of our work on professional stocks but occasionally we did see clients’ Gold negs come through our lab. Our observations of it were that it exhibited larger grain (for the format used), and a warmer (yellow and red) overall cast with less colour separation (and by extension less precise colour rendition). It also appear to lack the dynamic range that the professional stocks did. So far your comments are among the first to acknowledge this.
When using the Spot Healing Brush tool in Photoshop, I default to the “Content-Aware” type brush. However, if you’ve got scratches that run parallel to gradients or edges of objects, it’s best to switch to the “Proximity Match” type. This will preserve your gradients better.
It took me a minute to finish this but the thread replies are now functional. There’s only one level (so more like Slack). I’ve also just pushed them live, so hopefully, there aren’t too many bugs! 😅
That’s comparable to adjusting colour balance in PS. Should work just as well (you may need to combine it with the “tint” slider), although a filter could save you the trouble of figuring out how much to adjust and any colour corrections afterwards (I’ve since found that photographing snow on this film yields too much teal which may be difficult to fix in post).
That seems handy. Though the sheets of this size don’t seem to fit in a folder. I also saw six-by-six PrintFile sheets which would work if you get exactly 36 frames (but I usually get 39 🤑 and sometimes 27 or less for hand rolls).
I had been using at least two sheets per roll (depending on how the lab or myself cut the negatives) and had a lot of wasted space. Your method makes a lot of sense and I will have to give it a try!
I am obsessed with holding Mju II in my palm. It’s a special kind of camera. But I must agree — I’ve seen a lot of these with faults and issues. Sellers also often neglect to report them because they may seem insignificant unless you put film through the camera. 😔
And thank you for the tip about the ISO speeds! That’s wild. I’ll have to update the article.
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