I started scanning on a new Pacific Image PrimeFilm XA Plus. I am noticing this weird yellow discoloration on every scan. I have viewed the film through my Loupe and cannot find evidence of the discoloration on the negative. I am left to assume this a scanner issue. Anyone have any ideas about this?
I finally fixed a mysterious light leak on my Olympus PEN FV film camera.
It’s been bugging me for months. Changing the light seals did not help. In fact, I’ve done it twice, even followed the instructions by the website that pre-cuts them (aki-asahi.com/store/html/p…). Unfortunately, the leaks persisted.
So I tried something new. I loaded a donor (still good) roll of film and advanced it to frame 8. I then left my PEN in the bright sun for a day. Finally, I removed the strip of film that was wound up inside a dark bag, loaded it into a Paterson tank and developed.
The leak was apparent, but it didn’t align with anything on the back. Instead, it appeared as if the light was coming through somewhere above the wound-up spool. You can see it in the video here: youtube.com/shorts/y66XWAm….
I then remembered that I’d recently removed a loose screw from under the bottom plate. So I took the top plate off (thanks to this video, youtube.com/watch?v=9EX99e…) and found a hole where the missing strap lug screw opened up a gap for the light to get in.
I then re-fitted the strap lug with the screw I found earlier, which had fixed an issue that perplexed me for all this time. Finally, a leak-free PEN FV!
This is my first time cross-processing slide film at home. This roll of Ektachrome 200, expired many years ago so I am not yet sure whether the chunky grain is the result of using an alternative chemical process (C-41 instead of E-6), the age, or an older technology. Nevertheless, I’m rather happy with the results. The colours look accurate with a good amount of saturation and plenty of fidelity — which is more than I expected.
I have one more roll of the same emulsion which I hope to shoot in the coming months and process as a positive (the way it was meant to be). It then should be evident whether getting the “proper” chemicals is worth the extra effort and expense with this film.
Thanks! I haven’t had any data transfer issues since (I’m still using the same scanner!) but I have a strange issue that causes my XAs to reverse scanning order every other strip I insert. It’s very odd but the image quality is the same and I’m determined to use it until it gives up.
I’ve been inverting all my negatives using this method (I’ve developed an automated tool that does most of the work for me): analog.cafe/r/how-to-scan-…. This is mostly so that I get full control over the process; it’s particularly helpful for scanning films like Aerocolor IV that have a clear base.
Polaroid 600 is quite a bit different from SX-70, but I know that some of these cameras have close-up lenses and you may even be able to find an attachment.
A great write-up Dmitri. Interesting to hear of your recent data transfer issues — My RPS 10M (Same scanner?) has started encountering similar issues.
Was the inverted version you’ve posted created using your preferred tool? Silverfast HDR 8 can do a decent job (See attached) but I have to agree with you on the UI.
Here’s a short vlog of the Lomochrome Color’92 sample roll going through re-spooling, home development, and some of the results that I got with it: youtube.com/shorts/1vlwzcd….
As you can see from the video, Color’92 negatives are pretty dark compared to other C-41 films (Portra 800 in this case), but that shouldn’t cause any issues with scanning. I haven’t tried printing it in a darkroom though.
My negatives turned out looking very purple. Here’s what one of the frames in this article looks like on film. I had no issues with it after scanning. Hope this helps!
Edit: I replied earlier but it didn’t show up on the article because of a bug. I fixed it, so, hopefully, no more lost replies. 😅
I really enjoy the tendency of these cameras to shoot at wider apertures. Most point-and-shoots tend to avoid narrow depths of field, which makes Mju I/LT-1 somewhat special. Aside from minimizing motion blur, their lenses render bokeh beautifully to my eye.
It seems to like to shoot wide open as well, though maybe not too the extreme the mju ii does. You can actually find the exposure chart of mju II online and it starts to stop down after 1/125th (it goes to down to 1/1000 @ f11 in bright light so no f16 or smaller!). It’s a great camera but I also have a lot of slightly out of focus shots because of this.
Yeah, that‘s possible. On my mju I, and especially the mju II the lens seems to be almost better at close range though. I have some extremely crisp portraits with the mju ii where you can see every detail in the hair, fabrics, skin etc.
The AF-600 is actually quite well known for the lens and it’s size, and still not too expensive for some reason. The Fuji DL-500 is more overlooked but actually the more enjoyable camera in real use imo. It goes by like 10 different names (no kidding: camera-wiki.org/wiki/Fuji_…)
I’ve always wanted to try the Tiara and I have seen some very nice shots taken with it. But I have never found a good deal on it, and the ebay prices are a bit more than I would like to pay for a compact.
Dmitri Aug 13, ‘23
Nick Aug 13, ‘23
Dmitri Aug 13, ‘23, edited on Apr 27, ‘24
Dmitri Aug 11, ‘23, edited on Mar 7, ‘24
Dmitri Aug 6, ‘23
info Aug 6, ‘23
Dmitri Aug 5, ‘23
Dmitri Aug 5, ‘23
Dmitri Aug 5, ‘23
Chris Evans Aug 4, ‘23
nico.langthaler Aug 3, ‘23
Seth Holder Aug 3, ‘23
Seth Holder Aug 3, ‘23
Seth Holder Aug 3, ‘23
Dmitri Jul 28, ‘23, edited on Apr 27, ‘24
Dmitri Jul 25, ‘23, edited on Apr 27, ‘24
Dmitri Jul 21, ‘23, edited on Mar 7, ‘24
Dmitri Jul 20, ‘23
Mats Fagerberg Jul 20, ‘23
Mats Fagerberg Jul 20, ‘23