CineStill films can sometimes come out looking green from the scanner. In my workflow ( analog.cafe/r/how-to-scan-… ), they almost always need some slight adjustment to look right.
But sometimes, the film’s tendency to show a particular green cast can be nice. I think the colour in this photo looks just right: no edits are needed.
This was shot on CineStill 50D. A review of this film can be found here…
I use Super Lube synthetic grease for parts that aren’t inside the shutter. I usually leave shutters alone as they may have very specific lubricants, sometimes multiple types.
I was able to get into it and clean it and it‘s now back to working order! Yay! But I have a question on what type of lubricant or grease is acceptable to use for this camera. Do you have any suggestions?
This is what the green blotches looked like after I scanned the film in question (definite light leaks).
And this is the guide I wrote recently that I’d be using to fix my Olympus PEN FV’s light leaks: analog.cafe/r/how-to-repla…
Though I’ve had plenty of experience seeing and identifying light leaks in scanned negatives, I’m still relatively new to film development, and thus, I blamed my chemistry and the home-lab techniques first.
What do light leaks look like on colour film negatives?
A few days back, I pulled my film from my home-developing tank to find prominent green blotches across several frames. They were shot on my daily-use camera, which I knew had no light leaks until then, so the first suspect was my possibly-bad agitation technique or improper film loading onto the Patterson reels.
OH MY GOSH THANK YOU! I didn’t even see them, they were covered in dirt and grime and I thought they were painted dots for the settings. I was looking at the back and couldn’t figure out how to get in there. Thank you for all the helpful information, your article was wonderful. :) I’ll be back if I have more questions
The way I got in there was through the lens at the front of the camera. There are three tiny screws there. Once you open them up, you can get through the layers to the shutter and, if I remember correctly, the rest of the inner camera workings.
It’s totally stuck, I believe it’s just dirty. I am comfortable taking things apart and putting them back together but I can’t figure out how to start on this camera to get in there to clean it.
Welta’s shutter mechanism is relatively simple, so if you’re comfortable with taking your camera apart and have experience doing similar things, you can explore it. But I don’t have a definitive answer for you — sorry!
These shutters rely exclusively on the mechanical action of pressing down the button (as opposed to a loaded string on other cameras), so it could just be gunked up a bit.
Does it work on slower speeds for you, like 1/30th or bulb?
Not that you need another social network, but after playing with my code for a few hours this weekend, I made a page (you’re on it) where you can post comments and questions as you would on Mastodon or Twitter.
It’s built specifically for the blog and is intended to compile the community’s wisdom in one place.
Hope you like it — and let me know if I can improve it in any way!
Film is made for prints, not for s digital hybride process that causes “grain” itself. What’s the sense of analog photography when it is scanned by digital means and polished by software?
Btw. a two-bath, e.g. Barry Thorton, gives you grain like an RPX 100 and max. plasticity.
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