I had this camera in the 70’s and early 80’s. Wonderful. I just bought another one recently, and this article was very useful in reminding me of it’s ins and outs. Telling me which batteries to get was essential.
Great article! I think the the ISO dial is placed on top for easy exposure compensation. Most advanced photogs would have no problem calculating one or two stops over or under exposure using that adjustment. I think it was more of a practical than esthetic positioning. Thanks, @Br1anw1x.
ciao, complimenti per l’articolo, vorrei prendere una Penti 0 perché è più bella e più semplice della mia Penti II che credo di aver rotto: cioè chiudendo il dorso si è spostato qualcosa dentro al mirino e ora c’è un pezzo nero che si muove dentro e non vedo più come inquadrare, anche il rettangolo che delimita la corretta inquadratura si è spostato e si muove ogni volta che scatto. C’è un modo di sistemarlo o devo buttare la fotocamera? Grazie
Just finished collecting film June 2023 price data across international retailers. Looks like the average price has gone up by 3.49% since January.
The worst offenders were Kodak T-Max 100 (+15.29%) and Kodak Ektachrome (+12.86%). T-Max 400 and Tri-X are trailing with just over 12% price hikes since January.
But a few films went down in price considerably; Fujifilm Superia X-Tra 400 now costs 15.06% less — although this may be due to the discontinuation of this particular emulsion and stock clearances. In the…
Oh yeah, they are surprisingly expensive! Half-frames are a relatively rare breed tho and I haven’t yet seen any other than the Recorder that are pocketable point-and-shoots.
The one I held in hand was actually a little bulkier than some of the full-frame point-and-shoots I tried. But it still looks very nice and makes 72+ frames. I have a really nice scanner that could produce 60MP images from half-frames, so it could really be something.
The Konica Recorder is very high up on my list but for a few years now the cheapest copy I can find with a seller that guarantees it works costs approximately USD300. From what I have read the manual ISO selector takes priority so in essence you can play with underexposure or overexposure.
Even though the process tends to decrease the film’s exposure latitude (less detail) in the darkest corners of the image, the colours can still be made to look good. In this image, it’s pitch-black on either side of my long dog, Noodle. Yet there are no casts, and the colour balance looks natural; as you’d expect, places where the eye can’t see are black, and so they are too in this image.
This is in contrast to the blue and purple hues I saw in Jason’s video, which…
Just watched grainydays (Jason) push Portra 800 +1 to EI 1600. He didn’t seem to like his results, but I think this film is still worth a push if needed. If you do that, I advise using better scanning techniques and beware of the sharp falloff in the shadows.
And I think you’re right about the prices too. This and most Japanese cameras that weren’t exported to the US/EU seem to be all priced strictly by condition.
I actually just went through a streak of bad luck with the three “new” cameras in a row (analog.cafe/microblog/qopx). I thought I got good deals, but they all had to be sent back. So my new strategy is to spend a little more to avoid returning them later.
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